Today I’m going to replace the screen and
the battery in my Apple watch. This particular model is the sport edition 38 millimeter,
but the process will be similar for all of the Apple watches. For this project I’m
going to use a sturdy pry tool that you can find in the link in the video description.
You’ll see why you need something sturdy later on in this video. Removing the bands
is easy enough. Just take the tool, press the back buttons and slide off the bands.
I will link replacement bands in the video description as well. Make sure the device
is turned off. There are no external screws for this watch so the screen itself needs
to lift off. Using a heat gun I gently heat the watch up until it’s too hot to touch.
And then I take my razor blade and slide it between the metal frame of the watch and the
screen, making sure not to go too deep inside of the device. You’ll see why in just a
second. Just stay along the outer lip of the screen and the metal frame of the watch and
we should be okay. Make sure not to put too much pressure on the screen itself especially
with the higher end Apple watches using the sapphire glass. Sapphire glass is super brittle
and will shatter with too much pressure in one place. As I do this I’m making sure
not to damage to adhesive so I can reuse it later. Now that the screen is a little bit
separated from the device, I can take my plastic pry tool and slide it between the glass and
the metal frame. This is a little bit safer than using a metal object. And now I can get
a glimpse into the inside of the device. This little metal cover over the screen connections
is a super huge pain. The latch does not want to come off but with a little persuading down
by the little tip towards the bottom of the watch, you can get it to eventually separate.
The little screen ribbon cables underneath the latch can also be snapped off using the
same plastic pry tool. They are very similar to little Lego pieces. Try not to kink or
bend the ribbon cables too much because they are pretty fragile. So here’s the screen
for the Apple watch sport edition. The sport edition is made of ion x glass. The more expensive
Apple watches have the sapphire glass which ranks at about a 9 on Mohs scales of hardness.
Ion x glass sits at about a 7 or 8 on that scale. Still very scratch resistant, but not
as brittle as sapphire, which is a good quality on a sport watch. Remember when I said not
to slip your razor into the watch too far? There are a ton of ribbon cables right there
next to the edge of the screen that can be sliced. So watch out for them. If I can find
replacement parts for this watch I will link them in the video description. If there are
none linked in the description, you might just have to buy another broken or locked
watch and Frankenstein them together to make one working unit. Here’s where the durable
pry tool comes into play. The battery is glued down to the back of the watch so you have
to pry it out and unclip it from the watch body. It is a 205 milliamp battery. I reference
the Android smart watch, the Moto 360; it has a 300 milliamp battery. You can see the
taptic motor here. This is what you feel vibrating on your wrist when you get notifications.
And is actually surprisingly strong. Instead of a rotating motor like you see in most smart
phones, this one pulses back and forth to get a stronger buzz. Clipping the battery
back into place is relatively easy. The watch side of the connector just folds up to allow
you to pinch the battery back onto it. And the whole contraption just folds back into
the watch like some kind of origami masterpiece. Clipping the screen ribbons back down is a
lot harder. The Lego connections are itty bitty and you have to get them just right
for it to click into place. I’m going to test the screen before I put the little metal
latch back on so I don’t waste time with that tiny little thing. And the screen works
great so it is time for the latch, making sure to turn it off again before I slip the
metal object back inside the electronic device. It is a nightmare, but with just the right
placement and the right amount of force I can get it to click back into place again.
I personally am just going to use the same adhesive that was already in to watch to put
back down the screen. But you can always use a strong, thin double sided tape as well if
you’re worried about it coming loose. I will link that in the video description as
well. The screen does snap down when you press it into place so I’m not too worried about
it coming off. And it works! The watch bands click back into place as well and we are set.
Follow my Instagram if you’re bored. I promise I keep things interesting. Here are a few
of my other tear down videos as well. Thanks a ton for watching and I’ll see you in the