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Delta Teck II H2Optic Flushometer | Diaphragm | Repair and Replace

Delta Teck II H2Optic Flushometer | Diaphragm | Repair and Replace


Hi, I’m Vance and welcome to
Repair and Replace. In this episode we’re going to replace the diaphragm in a
Delta Tech II sensor flushometer. This applies to both urinals and water closets as the models are nearly identical except
for the spud diameter and size. To begin, you’ll need a diaphragm, a flat
blade screwdriver, a Phillips screwdriver, an eight point star bit or number three Robertson screwdriver, locking pliers,
an adjustable wrench and duct tape. Flushometers are also known as flush valves but function quite differently from the
flush valves found in residential toilets. In a Delta Tech II, a flexible rubber diaphragm
sits between the upper and lower chambers. At rest, high pressure water in the upper chamber keeps the diaphragm closed
tightly on the valve seat. When the sensor is activated, the solenoid valve opens and releases water
from the upper chamber. This creates a vacuum which lifts
the diaphragm up from the valve seat. The water from the inlet then
travels down the flush pipe. As the water flows, some of the water slowly travels through the bypass and
will eventually fill the upper chamber. The flush will continue until the pressure
pushes the diaphragm down once again. If the diaphragm wears down, it can cause continuous flushing if it fails
to seal properly on the valve. Alternatively, if the diaphragm sticks to the valve, it can prevent
the unit from flushing any water. First, shut off the water to the flushometer. Remove the cap and use a flat blade screwdriver to turn the screw
clockwise until the inlet stop closes. Next, press the manual override
button to help drain the remaining water. Remove the cover screws using an eight point star bit or a number
three Robertson screwdriver. Now, remove the cover. Take off the plastic cap and remove the button. Now, disconnect the sensor
wires from the solenoid. Slide the sensor housing up and over
the solenoid and set aside. Use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew
and remove the cast cap. Next, remove the diaphragm guide assembly. If you’re replacing the entire assembly
you can skip the next step. To replace the diaphragm, you’ll have
to separate it from the guide assembly. First, remove the poppet pin and set it aside. Since the assembly is threaded together,
it might be a little tricky to unscrew. First, take some duct tape and wrap
it around the shank to protect it. Use a bench vise or locking pliers
to secure the assembly. Now, use an adjustable wrench to grip onto
one of the tabs of the brass piece. Turn counterclockwise and unscrew the pieces. Separate and discard the old diaphragm. Align the new diaphragm so that
the top is facing you. The top will say “this side up”. Now, drop the top piece through the hole. Next, align the washer on the bottom
piece and screw the assembly together. Use the adjustable wrench to tighten
the pieces together. Now, remove the tape from the shank
and replace the poppet pin. Replace the diaphragm assembly and make sure the four screw holes and the two holes
on the upper chamber are aligned. Now, place the cast cap over top with the
regulating screw on the same side as the inlet. Next, tighten the mounting screws. Now, place the cover gasket on top. Slide the sensor housing over top of
the solenoid and align the screw holes. Reconnect the wires to the solenoid by
matching the color of each wire. Now, tuck the wires neatly inside the housing. Next, replace the button and plastic cap. Replace the cover and tighten the cover screws. Open the shut-off valve and replace the cap. Finally, test the flushometer and
check for any leaks. The first flush will remove all
the air from the system. The second flush should function as normal. If you found this video useful, hit “like”. To keep up to date with Repair and Replace,
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