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How To Clean the Carburetor on a Honda Generator

How To Clean the Carburetor on a Honda Generator


Hi, I am Tom from Weingartz. Today we’re
working on a Honda generator EU 2000I, and we’re going to show you how to clean the carb and drain the fuel
system. Today tools, you will need a flat head screwdriver a pair of pliers it a small flathead screwdriver eight-millimeter socket with ratchet and a pair of fuel line clamps. Now before you perform any repairs on the
fuel system atop the field cap has an off valve. Turn that valve to off, to prevent a
spill in coming out a cap picture machines in the opposition take your flat head screwdriver remove
the access panel on the side of the generator you’ll need to remove the screw on the front of the air filter cover remove the cover remove the filter and the lower filter. Inside air filter
cover there’s eight-millimeter screw need to remove that, also two eight-millimeter screws that hold the
air filter housing and carburetor to the engine While removing air filter housing there’s a small black breather hose that
runs from the crankcase up to the air cleaner you need to remove
that before you can remove their cleaner in it’s removed and once again at this point you’re going to have to remove the fluel line from the fuel pump to the carburetor use your fuel line pliers you wanna clamp off the fuel line now you want to remove the small clamp that is on the fuel line, that holds it to the carburetor you want to keep a rag handy for
this, once you pull out the fuel line you are goning to leak some fuel remove the air filter gasket check for any damages if you suggest it has a rip their to the gasket we recommend replacing now
before removing the carburetor we’re gonna give drain to drain the fuel
bowl for that your new drain pan and your small
flathead screwdriver and the bottom of the carburetor there’s a small flat head screw that
comes on the bottom allows you to properly drain and the bottom of the generator there’s
a hose that runs right out the bottom so I can dream right up about machine as
you turn the screw out you’ll notice you have fuel flow at the
bottom of the carb but that drain out now you can move the carb out a little farther on top of the carb there’s electronic
throttle control for your Eco throttle. You’ll need to remove the white cover that’s on top you need to remove the wires that are on
top also Now you’re able to remove the carburetor from the
engine remove the fuel lines from housing Now once you have this off, there’s a gasket on the back side in between carburetor and the engine. You need to inspect that for any damage and replace if necessary. So we recommend doing taken off the 10 millimeter bolt at the
bottom of the flow bowl Now you want to hold the carb over top-up a drain tank bacause once you take the bolt off there is still going to be some fuel that’s left in the bolt. Take the bolt out and remove the flow bolt now with the flow bolt off you want to inspect
for any varnish or any type of dirt, debris, that might be at the
bottom and clean it as necessary with the carburetor off you’ll remove the flow pin remove the flow and with the flow you notice that
there’s a needle on a spring that’s what controls the flow of fuel into the carb it seals it to prevent more fuel or allow more fuel into the carb You want to inspect it for any damage, or dirt, or debris bring. Now with this off there is a gasket that seals the flow bolt to the carburetor body you want to remove a gasket replace once you have it out. This gasket here is the most important. You’ll want to replace every time you go clean the carburetor do to the fact that it will warp once you take the flow bolt off and will not seal You’ll use a small screwdriver inside this main tube is your main jet. As the fuel flows in
this this is what controls how much fuel goes into the engine. Alright once you get the main jet out. The main
jet will look something like this: you want to inspect this for debris or varnish this is where most of your debris is going to end up, once it comes to the carburetor. You get this one too you wanna each side to this you can find
little holes you’re going to make sure all those are clean Inspected for debris and varnish. Now when cleaning the carb make sure your straw is on the car cleaner cleaner, make sure your safety glasses are on You’ll want to blow through it blow through it the other way Inspect it to make sure you have any more
debris and follow with compressed air same thing with your main jet flow through with carb cleaner, follow with
compressed air same thing with your flow bolt, wash it with carb cleaner follow with compressed air to take out
any dirt or debris Now with the carburetor itself you’re going push it through where your inlet needle is and where fuel flow comes in push carb cleaner through to flush out
any dirt or debris same thing to where your main jet came through
and then on the front and the back of the carb there are air surfaces you will also flush those out with carb cleaner and also follow with compressed air and once your carb is completely clean Now you’re ready to reassemble. During
reassembly. You’re going to want to note how this came out of the carb So you’re going to want to put that in first and then you will insert your main jet You are going to want make sure that the flathead part which you took out with a screwdriver
goes in last so that we’re still able to screwdriver in and tighten it back down Now tighten it back down with your flat head screw driver to tighten it back down but don’t over torque it because you’ll run the risk of ruining the carburetor or the main jet just a slight turn just
to make sure it slightly seeded. You’ll want to make sure you reinsert your flow bolt gasket make sure seated down in the groove
of the carburetor. You want to make sure your float and make sure the needles clean I recommend
replacing a needle inlet every time you clean it. Place it back on the carburetor install your flow pin. You want to reinstall your flow bolt. Now you want to make sure when you put the flow bolt back on and they have your drain valve facing the
front of the carb That way when you going to put the carb back on, or when you go to take back of the drain valves in front are able to
drain it. You’ll want to replace flow bolt and on this bolt there is also a
gasket they will come with the flow bolt kit.
Make sure you replace the gasket. Tighten the flow bolt back down with your ten millimeter wrench again don’t over torque just lightly seed to prevent damage to the carburetor You’ll want to make sure that the
reinstall your gaskets in between the carb and the cyliner head. I recommend replacing
these unless they are not damaged I have reinstalled the carb You want to make sure you reconnect your wires for your electronic throttle control I want to
replace the gasket between the carburetor an air filter You’re going to re-route the wires and the fuel lines that you took out for the drain. The drain hose it comes out the bottom you just want to show just a little bit
at the bottom in housing. You want to reinstall your fuel lines now install your air filter cover. You’ll want to make
sure that you put your breather back on the cover on the little
nipple that comes out the bottom Check your air filters make sure they’re clean
free from dirt debris for install back into the housing. Now
before you put the access panel back on recommend turning on the fuel valve check
your carburetor for any more leaks visually check anything make sure
nothing leaking inside the cover before you put it on or start the machine. Now let it run for 10 to 15 seconds but
the engine warm-up and once you shut the machine down verify
the don’t have any fuel coming out of the overflow shows up the
cover is sealed and there’s no issues with machine.

94 thoughts on “How To Clean the Carburetor on a Honda Generator”

  1. Hi, Cash! The number you'll need for the bowl kit is 16015-ZM7-003, while the number for the gasket kit is 16010-ZM7-D01. If you have any other questions, please feel free to give us a call at (855) 669-7278. Thanks!

  2. So… I did all this because my machine won't run without the choke being almost totally ON.    I found that the jet was green and tarnished, spun it up on my drill and polished it with 0000 steel wool.  Then blew it out with carb cleaner and compressed air, visually inspected it all the holes for daylight.  Result was that it didn't need quite as much choke to run smoothly, but would NOT run without choke.  What's next? What if this doesn't do the trick?

  3. Cleaning the main jet didn't do the trick? Still needs choke to run well? Here's the next step… The guy at my Honda generator store told me that what I needed was a NEW main jet.  Told him I made sure it was clean as a whistle.  He said that over time the main jet, which is brass becomes tarnished (inside the hole) so that the orifice is just a fraction smaller than originally intended.  Install a new one and Shazamm! no more choke needed. He also was adamant about the ethanol content of modern fuels raising hell with most fuel system components.   The Honda part you need is "Jet, Main (#62)" part number is 99101-ZG0-0620… cheap solution… I paid $5.14 retail. Job done.

  4. Great Video, My generator only ran with the choke on too. I cleaned the carburetor out three time with carb cleaner and air, now my generator runs like new.  I did not remove the electronic control wires, the wires are long enough to do the job connected.  Now I will drain the carb. bowl by loosening up the drain plug before storing the generator.

  5. Excellent. I m half way with my EU1000i (same set up). Now i have to find a carb cleaner in vietnam. I only ran that genset 3 hours. It is dirty like hell. Any way well done vid. Cant make it clearer.

  6. at 08:45 You mentioned that you recommend replacing the Needle and Nut every time you clean.  Please provide part numbers.  I found your website difficult to find the parts I need, Links to all parts recommended in the video would be great.  Thanks for the demonstration!

  7. Very well done video. On the comment from Cash you said 
    "The number you'll need for the bowl kit is 16015-ZM7-003, while the number for the gasket kit is 16010-ZM7-D01"

    What comes in each kit? Which kit has the bowl seal that you say needs to be replaced each time it is worked on?

  8. Excellent video…thanks. My 2000i only runs with choke wide open so I'll be doing the carb this weekend!

  9. What is the cost of the bowl and gasket kit for the Honda EU2000i trying to compare rebuilding the carb verses buying a new one.Thanks

  10. @Donnie Lee – For the cost of the kit, you're looking at $10.99. The complete carburetor will run you $126.53. Let us know if you have any other questions or would like help finding parts!

  11. I wanted to thank you for this video. Last year took my machine to a small engine repair shop. Said I needed a new carb. Had about 10 hours on machine. Said they didn't have a rebuild kit. $140 for a new carb and $60 to install. I'm feeling pretty stupid now. Watched your video a few times and 30 minutes later, she's purring like a kitten. I've always run ethanol few fuel in it. How could Honda ever put out a machine so prone to this. You need to come up with a fix.
    Thank you

  12. Thank you for this post. I am a very reluctant mechanic, and this is a very thorough explanation. Everything went as you described.
    I had a clogged jet. After reassembly, it started first pull.

  13. Fantastic video. Only 1 criticism…when reassembling 'you are going to want to know how this came out of the carb.." Which you proceed to hide the orientation or comment on which end goes in first. Of course I did not note which way it came out….

  14. I learned an important lesson, spend plenty of time with the carb cleaner, particularly with the 4 openings in the body of the carb. It took a number of cleanings to get those as clean as needed.
    Great video very helpful

  15. Just cleaned mine and it runs well. The carb parts add up in a hurry – I wanted all the gaskets, a float needle, a main jet, and the main tube. Roughly $55, against a whole new carb at roughly $125.
    Which main jet is the standard one – 58,60,or 62? Mine is the EU2000i A/B variant.

  16. ha! i dint no that tube was above the jet , freaking thing wont idle with out choke ,Ill pull it back apart and clean that sucker too .

  17. Thanks you for this great video that was well done. Thanks to you now I got mine up and running that wouldn't start.

  18. Hi Tom, I performed the cleaning and it still run roughly, also gasoline smell on the exhaust and black smoke. Did I have to replace the carb?

  19. Awesome instructions, thank you! I am a total mechanical moron and you made this look so easy and explained each piece so well it gave me enough confidence I was able to clean up the carb on my unit that had sat for two years. I put it back together and it started on the second pull and runs better than it ever did before. Thanks for the tip in the comments about removing the jet tube as well, I had to ease it out with a screwdriver as suggested.

  20. terrible video no close ups of the carb only close ups of the dude working on it really crappy how to camera man was a newb and had no idea what he was doing

  21. Very good idea. Followed you step-by-step until you removed the main jet. Took awhile to figure out what you had actually done with that step. As it was, we weren't able to undo that screw down inside the tube. Thought we might strip it by mistake. So we didn't go any further. Plus we need to buy some replacement parts before we try again. Thanks for your help.

  22. You are a legend. Thanks so much for your time and a great, well explained video. I'm assuming this is the same procedure on all Honda generators?

  23. Video ,on the ZOOMING side Not good !
    The camera man is pretty bad on zooming .they should repost this video again please.

  24. Hi, I have this generator and it's been sitting for several years (with gas in it). I started it today and it started beautifully, BUT there is gasoline running out the bottom. I took the cover off and it appears there is a hose on the carburetor that isn't attached. It's located on the right side but out of reach unless you take the air cleaner off. Is this hose supposed to be unattached? I tried to see it in your video but couldn't quite tell for sure. Thanks! Sharon

  25. At 7:56 you say "you want to note how the nozzle came out" Then your hand blocks how you put it back in. Mine fell out so I now have no idea which way it goes back in. Otherwise it's a very useful video. I just don't know which way my nozzle goes back in.

  26. THE COIL. THE STARTER PULL ROPE. WHATEVER IT IS CALLED.
    Isn't there any instruction on how to remove the covers properly, and access that recoil system inside?
    My rope snapped and the generator just sits there now.

  27. Hope someone else has seen this issue. Have neighbor with generator:
    will start, run for about 20 minutes then shutdown (immediate as if
    ON/OFF switched off). I can restart, choke needs to be about mid range
    and will run for 5- 10 minutes then shutdown again. Oil OK, spark plug
    OK. I will probably rebuild carb, but wondered if this symptom means
    fuel pump or fuel filter, valve clearance?

  28. This is actually very helpful but I need the kit, any honda dealer that carries this generator should have the carb kit or able to order one. Along with that i would also change the oil. These are the best generators in the world in my opinion. Basically light, really misers on fuel and the econo throttle increases or decreases according to demand. Great generators.

  29. Thanks for the great video. One thing that gets glossed over is the removal and replacement of the inner fuel jet located under the jet screw. Mine doesn't want to come out!

  30. Im having an issue with the eco throttle after performing this carb rebuild {eco throttle was working fine before}… When I flip the eco throttle switch nothing happens and the generator is always running wide open as if eco throttle is not engaged. Any ideas about what to look for or how to fix this issue?? I also performed a full tune up.

  31. I have a brand new 1000W inverter generator (zipper ZI-STE1200IV, probably a honda clone) that bogs down and dies if loaded suddenly by a 2-element 800W halogen heater. If I load it with 400W first, wait, then turn on the second 400W element, it delivers 800W with no problems. If I give it half-choke, I can start the entire heater without the engine dying (though it still bogs down). Looking at the throttle position, it seems to do nothing when the heater is first turned on, then once the engine feels the load and rpm starts to drop, the stepper moves rapidly towards full throttle – but most of the time it's too late and the engine sputters and dies. It is then impossible to start the engine (with the throttle still stuck at full throttle) unless I give it some choke. Also, it hunts up and down the rev range when cold and at low load. The carb looks identical to the one in this video, complete with stepper motor at the top. Any ideas what could be wrong?

  32. Thank you so very much. I had bought this generator and after just 15 hours use, stored it away. Just 3 months later, the Honda EU2000i would not start. Everyone here wants hundreds to fix this generator but no one was able to even look at mine in a timely manner. Thanks to this video, I managed to clean the varnish from my Carb and it is working great again.

  33. Thank you so much for posting this. I put everything back together and had to take it apart to clean the jet. After I did this, it works like a champ!

  34. how come you forgot to clean/check the pilot jet [ located under the throttle stop screw ]  and  the pilot set screw ?

  35. had the same thing with my honda 10i. nobody spoken about the fuel pump, little filter on its side, that the engine pumps air to the fuel line, to the fuel pump to then go then the carb, taken mine apart small copper air filter was blocked, washed with hot soapy water now put back working fine, as i now see this small air being pumped fuel to engine , to the fuel pump feeds the fuel to the carb from the tank, if as min the membrane was not moving thus the pump not pushing air to the carb, this pumps fuel and thus run out of fuel stopped and as your lumpy as not getting enough fuel to run
    Show less
    REPLY

  36. Great info. like to add my husband used a tip cleaner that he uses to clean his ax./ox. torch tip, there like real small round files to clean the jets.

  37. I have this generator but don't know exactly what I can and can't connect or how many at the same time. Can I do a big fridge , computer and LCD TV? Can someone explain if long extensions (50ft) and then connecting a multi plug affects performance? Thanks

  38. Nice video.
    Thanks very much from team gensetwala
    we would like to add your videos to our blog
    need your permissions.
    Thanks.

  39. I have a brand new eu 2000i I put mobile 1 in as soon as I bought it but it seems to smoke as it first starts up. When I bought this generator I made sure it was never used and not a returned item by putting my nose in the gas tank among other things. For sure it was brand new, but it does not run smooth and it burns oil at the start up. You can smell the oil burn from 20 feet away. I went to a Honda dealer because it's under warranty but they would not help. Anyone have any ideas?

  40. watched several videos on this and yours was the best. my o-ring was bad on the idle jet and it took me a couple hours to do compared to your 13 minutes. but it works great now and that is all that matters.

  41. Was hoping  you would show how to remove the choke lever.  Mine will not stay in the choke position so I manually hold it until it starts then when I release it, it returns to the middle position and flutters.  Lately, I have been taping it in the open position after it is running.   Any suggestions appreciated.

  42. Yes.  I have two  2000i.  When I move the choke lever back to the left on the second one, it stays to the left and does not go to the center and "flutter", for a better word.  Thanks for your help.

  43. I copied your video step by step and sure enough one pull got me back in business after seemingly spending hours trying different things. Thank you for the easy to follow directions!,, I will make sure to start periodically so I won’t have this problem again.

  44. The most important part you missed is to remove and clean the pilot jet under the idle screw, the hole is so tiny you can hardly see it , tiny hole is easiest to clog, much smaller than a wire brush bristle, replace is best

  45. There is also a low speed jet. This jet is on top of the carb, under the idle speed screw. Problems with "eco-mode are often associated with this jet.

  46. Kinda helpful video…obviously the mechanic is very knowledgeable about this generator. The camera operator on the other hand…whew! Maybe if they stood further back we could see the factory in Japan. We can’t see through fingers, and we can’t see the removal of the jets, arguably the most important step. Also, zipped by the exact location to aim carb cleaner at the carb. Between squinting to see the tiny carb in hand and trying for x-ray vision to see through fingers and arms…er….

  47. Question? On the EU 2000i carburetor modification for high altitudes. Specifically over 5000’…..it’s says (owner’s manual) to have authorized service dealer make modifications. Could / would you tell me what involved so I can decide whether I could do it ?

  48. Used this video to clean the carb on my 3000is. Very similar takedown. The holes on my jet were all clogged. Used a sewing needle to push out the varnish on the tiny holes. Runs like a champ!

  49. Hi Tom, great video! I have an issue I can't seem to fix regarding the float bowl and the seal ring. It just will not seal and drips gas. I've replace the seal ($13 ouch!) and it still drips gas when started. I tried tightening the screw really (really) tight as well as leaving it just snug tight… still drips. It's almost like the bowl is "out of round". Is this possible? Any fix ideas? Thank you!

  50. Nice thought in doing this video but you need a professional camera operator and equipment to do your close-ups…

  51. Thanks for the video. I have an EU2000i that will only run with the choke fully closed. I used this video to remove and clean the carb. There was a significant amount of varnish/ gunk built up in the float bowl, main jet etc. I cleaned everything out with carb cleaner and canned air, including using a small needle to clean the very small holes in the tube above the main jet. I could see light through the all holes. After cleaning, it will still only run with the choke on. Any ideas? Gas is new. Unit dies completely when choke is open (lever moved to left).

  52. Very helpful, thank you. I have organized all the key comments along with links to parts, some close-up photos, etc. in a shop notebook here: http://bit.ly/2R9l1f3 Hope that folks find this helpful.

  53. I’m sorry but your cameraman really needs help. For people who have no idea what we’re doing on these machines need a zoom in on what you’re doing. He’s zoomed so far back on most of this video that I can’t see a thing. So frustrating

  54. I hadn't ran my generator in 4 years. Couldn't get it started. Followed this video and it started right up! Thanks!

  55. Exceeded my expectations!
    Detailed explanation with good video demonstration!
    Thanks! Wish you would do the EU1000i. It is slightly different.

  56. The "This one too" is the one I want to see how you got out. I'm sure I'll figure it out, but why not show that in the video.

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