Your iPhone fell down and the display broke. In this video, I’ll show you how to replace your display on your own. This repair is easy. Plan on taking about half an hour. You’ll need the following tools: a pentalobe screwdriver, a Phillips screwdriver, a hard plastic pick, a suction cup, a steel laboratory spatula, a pair of tweezers and a spudger. You can find these tools, the replacement part and a magnetic pad in our display kit. If you get stuck on one of the steps in this repair, use the guide with pictures on our website. You can also use the comment function there to ask questions. Have fun repairing your device. Before I start the repair, I’m going to turn off the device so I don’t cause any short circuits. Before I can open the device, I have to remove the two pentalobe screws to the left and right of the charging port. Now I lift the display by sticking my suction cup pretty far down on the display and using my pick to push the enclosure against the table. I lift the display with the suction cup. As soon as a gap appears, I insert my pick into it and try to detach the display from the enclosure using a lifting motion. Now I can lift the display. But don’t forget that the display’s connections are at this end. Don’t stretch them too much or tear them because that would damage the display. There are five screws and a plate holding the display’s contacts in place. Don’t mix up the five screws because that could cause damage. I remove the screws and then I carefully remove the plate using the tweezers. Now the contacts are exposed and I can disconnect them one after the other, starting with the connection for the front camera, then the connection for the Home button. After that, I disconnect the connection for the display and then the one for the touchscreen. Now I remove the display. Here’s the new display. It’s still sealed. Before I can start the actual repair, I have to connect it so I can test it. Of course, you have to turn on your device. Mine’s already on. To test it, I unlock the device, touch an app until I can drag it and then move this app around the whole display. If that work’s, things are looking good. I also recommend checking the brightness level. Then you can start the repair. But before I can start with the new display, I have to transfer some parts from the old display, including the earpiece, the front camera, the Home button and the entire rear panel. There are a plate and three screws of different lengths holding the earpiece in place. First I remove the three screws, and then I remove the cover. Now I fold the front camera back so I can get to the earpiece and remove it. Now I remove the front camera, or rather the whole cable. Once I’ve folded back the front camera, I insert the spudger below this end of the cable to carefully detach the cable from the glue. Then I have to be really careful because the microphone, which is the gold thing you see here, is glued on and I have to carefully detach it. If the ESD spudger or the pointed tip of it is too thick for this step, you can also carefully use the steel spatula. Anyway, now I can remove the cable. A plate and two screws hold the Home button in place. I remove the two screws. Using the tweezers, I carefully remove the plate. Then I can use the spudger to disconnect the Home button’s contact. Next, I carefully disconnect the Home button’s flexible flat cable from the display using the steel spatula. Then I lift the display a little so I can push the Home button out of the display with my finger. The rubber rim will stretch a little in this step, but don’t push too hard or it will break. Now comes the display’s rear panel. You have to remove the seven screws holding it in place. Before I can remove the rear panel, I have to disconnect the contact for the Home button from the display frame by carefully inserting the steel spatula below the cable. Then I can easily take out the rear panel. The new replacement part may be missing a few parts, which you have to transfer from your old display, including the guides for the front camera and proximity sensor, and sometimes the guide for the earpiece. Now I remove the seals and protective film from the new display. Otherwise, they’d get in the way during installation. Now I can install the parts from the old display again. This replacement part already has the guides, so I start with the rear panel. It’s fairly easy to install the rear panel. The important thing is that the cable for the display is under the panel and the panel is positioned over the screw holes so everything’s flush. Then I can fasten the seven screws again. Before I move on to the next step, I have to stick the cable for the Home button back on. Now I put the Home button back in. There are two holes in its flexible flat cable that have to go over two tabs in the frame. Of course, I also have to put the Home button into the opening. You can press the flexible flat cable on a little more so it will stick better. Then, of course, I also connect the Home button. After that, I secure the Home button with the plate and two screws so it won’t fall out. Before I can install the flexible flat front camera cable, I have to remove an adhesive surface from a piece of protective film, which is right next to the opening for the earpiece. Now I can install the flexible flat front camera cable again. First I press down the display’s cables, and then I guide the microphone onto the adhesive surface. There’s a little hole in the microphone that a tab has to go through. Then I put the brightness and proximity sensors back in the two openings. The next step’s a little tricky. First I have to fold back the front camera, and then I have to put the earpiece between the front camera and the proximity sensor. Then I press down the flexible flat front camera cable and push the front camera into the guide, but I keep my finger on it to make sure everything doesn’t fall apart. Then I put the plate back on, making sure that the tabs up here go through the two holes. Next, I keep holding it in place and fasten a screw to hold everything together. Don’t tighten the screws too much because that could damage the finish on the display. Then you’d see the tip of the screw on the front. Once the third screw’s in place, it’s all perfect again. Now I’m putting the display back on, so I have to connect the four contacts to the logic board first. I have to make sure I don’t stretch them too much or tear them. I start with the contact for the touchscreen, then I connect the contact for the display, then the one for the Home button, and finally the one for the front camera. Now I can use the plate and the five screws to fasten the contacts again. Make sure you don’t mix up the screws. Putting a screw that’s too long into the wrong thread could damage the logic board below it. That could cause problems like a defective backlight or a blue screen. Next, I can lower the display to close the enclosure. I have to make sure I hook the top of the display onto the enclosure, and then I press down a little until the display is hooked into the enclosure. To finish the repair, I just have to fasten the two pentalobe screws to the left and right of the charging port. To finish up, I test the display by dragging an app around the screen with my finger, moving it around the entire border and then in a zigzag across the screen. The app should always follow your finger. That means the display’s working right. Now you’ve repaired your iPhone, and I hope you had fun. But if you do get stuck somewhere, contact me at idoc.eu. I’d be happy to help you. 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