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iPhone 6 GLASS ONLY Screen Repair COMPLETE

iPhone 6 GLASS ONLY Screen Repair COMPLETE

Today I’m going to show you how to replace
just the glass on an iPhone 6. If you want to see me take apart the phone, go ahead and
click the link in the upper left hand corner. I have already taken off the back metal plate,
the home button, the earpiece, and now the little plastic bit for the camera, the rubber
piece for the earpiece, and the little plastic square up top. You will be using these on
your new glass when you install it. Be super super careful with these little ribbon cables
here. If you tweak or bend them too much they will stop working. Grab a heat gun and heat
up your screen uniformly across the whole surface so you don’t have any hot spots. Between
70 and 95 degrees Celsius is what’s worked for me in the past. If you have a little laser
temperature sensor it’s really easy to keep the temperature where you need it to be. Now
I tried removing just the frame because with the iPhone 5 and 5c and 5s, that’s how you
would do it, just a glass repair. But on this phone, the frame is very securely glued to
the glass and does not come off, unfortunately. It makes this repair much harder. So I took
some of the smaller shards of glass and lifted them out with my razor blade. You can see
that I’m sliding the razor blade underneath the glass, not lifting up too high. You don’t
want to create a teeter-totter effect and put too much pressure on the digitizer underneath.
It’s literally as fragile as an eggshell. Now that I have a slightly wider opening I
can take my playing card and use it to separate the glass from the LCD because of the heat,
that we put on it before, has kind of liquefied the glue. So using the combination of razor
blades, heat. and playing cards we’re going to accomplish this whole repair. Anyways,
heating the phone back up to a safe temperature range again. Remember, if you go too hot you’re
going to burn the LCD, so make sure to heat it up. If it’s too hot to touch you probably
went too far with the heat. I’m taking the card and sliding it between the frame and
the glass and it’s super important to remember that no matter how boring I get during this
repair, you’re probably going to want to watch the whole thing because I’m going to be dropping
tips the whole way. Now that we’re away from the LCD and digitizer I can use my knife a
little more comfortably and I’m going to make a slot between the frame and the glass so
I can slide my card, because it really does make the repair a whole lot easier once you
don’t have to deal with that frame in the way. The card can slide between the glass
and LCD. So I’m going to heat the phone back up. The phone cools down obviously pretty
quickly so I’m going to be heating it up about every thirty to forty seconds, just so I can
stay within that safe range. You can see that as the phone starts to cool down the card
doesn’t slide as well between the glass. I could speed this part up but then you wouldn’t
realize how slow and meticulous this whole process is. Plus removing shards of glass
from an extremely fragile digitizer has got to be on pretty much everyone’s bucket list.
So consider yourselves lucky to be blessed with this fascinating spectacle as you embark
on a journey of a lifetime. Also, don’t plan for the perfect replacement. Even though mine
worked, it was not completely perfect. This repair is best if you are already planning
on buying a new screen anyway and you want to try just the glass repair for kicks and
giggles and not as a first plan of action. Now just grab that heat gun and heat that
phone up to the correct temperature again. You can see that I’m still between the frame
and the glass, so taking off this big chunk right here is pretty easy because I don’t
have to deal with the frame. Honestly, a year or two down the road, it might just be worth
it to buy a whole screen and not deal with just a glass swap. It would be more cost-effective
to buy the whole screen as a unit. The price of the screens do drop over time. You can
check the price of current screens down in the video description below. Now if you look
up in the corner you can see the link to another video I made last year called “Tips and Tricks:
Three common mistakes that people make when replacing just the glass.” I do recommend
watching that if you are serious about doing this repair yourself. I talk about things
to avoid while working on your phone. Plus it’s interesting because I actually break
screens in that video. That video was very expensive to make at the time. As I’m getting
toward the edge of the frame I take my razor blade and slide it between the glass and the
frame, and this does make it a little bit easier to get the card between the LCD and
the glass. Once again the frame is really hard to work with. It’s a shame that it’s
glued on so tight. So this repair is really hard. Chances are you’re going to just be
working along, minding your own business, when out of the blue your LCD’s going to snap,
and you’re going to think HOLY COW! that JerryRig guy was right. This digitizer’s really fragile.
If you lift up too high on this edge, it’s going to drive the other edge into the digitizer
itself, kind of like a teeter-totter effect, so you want to make sure to slide the card
horizontally underneath the glass and not lift up too much. Otherwise you’ll end up
with a broken LCD. Also, if you heat up the screen too much, you’re going to end up with
yellow or burn marks on the LCD, and that’s why I say heat the whole screen up uniformly,
that way you don’t concentrate the heat in one spot and cause those burn marks. Anyway,
go super super slow. You know that feeling you get when you’re driving down the road
and you see a cop and you freak out for a second because you have no idea how fast you’re
actually going? You should feel that way during this entire repair. A little bit stressed
out, anxious, nervous, you never know when the whole screen’s going to break. Kind of
like finals week of college when you haven’t exactly been going to all your classes. Just
kidding, Mom. I totally went to all of my classes, like all of the days that there was
class to go to, I was definitely there. Back to the repair, sliding the card underneath
the glass still and up along the top. This piece of glass was connected to the frame
of the phone still but since we’re so close to the edge on this one, I decided not to
mess with the glass, otherwise I might crack it along the corner. So I separated the glass
from the LCD and just left it there. And I will deal with it later since it wasn’t exactly
connected at this point. This piece didn’t allow me a whole lot of access to either so
I didn’t lift up on it, I slid around and got this second piece off over here and then
went back to that one later. I know you’d rather be watching paint dry or grass grow,
but this is extremely helpful to the whole process done start to finish. So hang in there.
While you’re there, you might as well hit that subscribe button down below, it helps
to keep me motivated making tutorials like this in the future, also check my instagram.
I promise my life is not as boring as this video makes it seem. I’m going to keep on
removing these itty-bitty shards of glass. Lucky for me my screen was pretty cracked
up, so I can remove the glass pieces individually. I imagine if you just have one long crack
or, you know, several small cracks, it’d be a harder repair because you don’t have as
many access points. As you get close to the edge and the corners be super careful, because
the screen, the LCD, and the digitizer are much more fragile along those points, and
also remember to watch out for the ribbon cables up top. You really don’t want to bend
or tweak those or put any pressure on them at all. They are super fragile. Slide my knife
along the edge of that frame to get the glass shards off. It really is amazing how well
the frame grips the glass during this repair. It also is interesting to note that as you
get rid of the glass, the phone actually cools down faster. So you’ll find yourself heating
the phone up more and more as there’s less glass on the phone. It kind of retains less
heat than it did when there was a full sheet of glass on top. Anyway, we are almost there.
Give me a thumbs up down below if you’ve managed to stay awake this long. I promise the glass
is almost off and we will continue with the repair. I’m going to show you the glue here
in just a second. Now that the glass is off this is the LCD. As you can see it’s pretty
darn dirty at the moment, but, before we start cleaning it, I want to make sure I’m not wasting
my time. So I’m going to make sure that it still works. Plugging it into the phone is
slightly dangerous obviously, I’m going to go ahead and turn it on. Everything looks
good so far. Make sure to slide things around a little bit, make sure that the screen’s
working. Obviously if the screen’s not working at this point there’s nothing you can do.
Especially if you’ve made sure the connections are good and everything. And you can just
scratch the repair, buy the whole screen, and put it back together again with a new
screen on it. I’m getting the glass off the old frame, because we are going to reuse that
frame with the new glass that we bought. Also check the video description down below, I
have replacement parts and tools listed down below. Everything that you will need for this
repair will be there. So I’m taking a plastic pry tool and scraping the glue off of the
glass. There are two little doohickeys up at the top. I don’t know what they are, but
they look important, so make sure not to scratch those off during your cleaning process. You’re
just going to take your plastic pry tool and just scrape all the glue off. You can kind
of imagine it being similar to scraping sticky gum off of an eggshell. Except that if you
break this eggshell, it will end up costing you a lot of money. So make sure you go super
slow, and be super careful. Remember that the corners are the most fragile part of this
screen, so be really careful as you’re working around the corners and the edges. Once you’re
done scraping all the major glue chunks off, you can take your alcohol and a rubbing pad
and just kind of rub it around on the screen, and that will get rid of a lot of the glue
residue. And then you take your pry tool and scrape off any remaining chunks. The whole
process took me about fifteen or twenty minutes to get the screen clean, and you can see here
that minus a few scratches, everything is still working. The glue that I use will fill
up the scratches on the phone, so you will not notice them once the new glass is in place.
Which is nice. Everything still works. Make sure you turn the phone completely off before
you move the LCD again. And here is the Loca glue. Loca is an ultraviolet activated optically
clear adhesive. It’s a very complicated name, but a very simple concept. I’m going to put
the glue on. And you want to make sure not to use too much because it is a very hard
to clean substance. It will stick on the phone, and is not easy to clean off. Plus, along
the edges, if you get glue on the edges, it will discolor your LCD. So you want to really
make sure that no glue gets on the edge of your phone. You can see at the end of this
video, my LCD did have some seepage inside, and you can see the discoloration and the
mistakes that I made towards the end. So right now I’m just going to set the glass on top
of the screen. And this is real time, it’s not sped up or slowed down, but the reason
I’m doing it so slowly is because as the glue touches the glass, you want to make sure that
no air bubbles get caught inside of there. Because the air bubbles are hard to get rid
of. So you really just want to go slow and make sure that the glue is going in one straight
line and not grasping all the little air pockets. So the moral of the story is to go slow. Kind
of like this video is a fairy tale that you’ll watch every night before you fall asleep,
you know, slow and steady wins the race. I should probably write like a children’s book
or something. It’ll probably put everybody to sleep. So this will make your life a lot
easier, if you use a mold like this. You put the LCD in, you put the glue on, and then
you put the glass exactly where you want it on top. Now for this video I’m not going to
use a mold, just keep in mind that you want to line it up with both the left and the right
sides of the screen, keeping it the same distance on either side. And also keeping in mind that
if you mess up even half of a millimeter, your phone’s not going to line up with the
old frame that you took off of your old screen. So now that I have it positioned over the
LCD, so that you don’t see the LCD anymore I’m putting a UV light over the glue, which
is causing it to cure or dry. Without the UV light the glue would stay liquid. So I
put it over for about ten seconds or so, lifted it up and making any last minute adjustments
to the LCD that I need to. Since I’ve adjusted it I’m going to glue a little bit more, which’ll
dry the glue a little bit more and allow me to do any more adjustments. Granted if you
were using a frame for the phone or like a mold, you wouldn’t need to do this. Since
the screen is in the exact place where I need to I’m going to cure it the last time for
about three minutes, it should be dry. Now here’s another mistake. As I was cleaning
off the glue I would kind of force the glue into the LCD on the sides, causing the discoloration
that you see at the end of this video. So make sure you that you avoid getting glue
on the sides of the LCD if at all possible. It’ll definitely save you some time and headache
later. So with the frame of the screen, you want to use some double-sided sticky tape,
and you want to use some permanent stuff. Because this screen does need to stay very
very securely attached to the side of the frame. Without it, your screen will lift off.
Granted, if you have a case, that will help keep your screen attached as well. So I would
recommend putting a case on after you get this baby put back together again. If you
need to see how to put your screen back together again go ahead and click the link it’s the
same one you clicked on at the beginning of this video, it’ll show you how to put the
home button and the earpiece, and the whole phone back together again. And here you go.
You can see the slight discoloration at the top and the bottom of my screen, this is from
the glue seeping into the LCD. Other than the phone worked really really well, the LCD
wasn’t lined up perfectly with the frame but it’s usable, so if you were to buy a mold
and if you were to keep the glue from entering the LCD this would have been a perfect repair.
Anyway hopefully you can learn from my mistakes, hope you liked the video and if you liked
what you saw hit that subscribe button and like it, thanks for watching. Hope to see
you around.

100 thoughts on “iPhone 6 GLASS ONLY Screen Repair COMPLETE”

  1. I watched the whole video and when i'm done my brain can't process the data input because my eyes analyze the video as tutorial but my ears analyze it as fantasy stories. The way you talk to narrating this video LMFAO

  2. Using metal cutting wire is much easier and it’s really cheap. Of course then you’d need to remove the plastic frame but it’s still easier and less risky

  3. So u take care of the displej all the time and then u stick the plastic around display with double tape?! Holy moly, you cant mean this seriously 😂

  4. Hi there! thanks for this great video. Was wondering if you’ve tried the the T solder Iron tip to remove the glass and the glue?
    Also is it possible to use a thin strip of masking tape around the lcd to prevent glue seeping in to the LCD?

    Last question if you have any tips / suggestions on what to do if I strip a Y screw?

  5. do u really have to glue it back or what happns if u dont cause u figure u have to screw the plate back on which will hold everything

  6. Seeing as the entire screen assembly for the iPhone 6 is only about $15-$20 on Amazon now it's just not worth it to do this repair anymore. I do a lot of screen replacements for people though and have about 10-12 old broken iPhone 6 screens. They're original apple screens so I may try to refurbish them by putting new glass on them. Looks like it could be fun! 😉

  7. Hey guys so my brothers iPhone 6s Plus screen works plus the digitizer but I think this is a bit hard for me so do I just buy the whole lcd and put it on the iPhone 6s Plus? Would I need any other parts?

  8. hi there! thanks for the great videos. I was trying to replace my iphone 7 plus glass according to your instructions however since it's a time consuming work and it's my first time , I thought i'd test the screen while half the glass is still on it and well the screen is working but with plenty of weird lines on it and the touch is not working . Is it already ruined or I have to completely take the glass off to know?

  9. Hey if I bought an alignment mold, do I have to worry about the glue sealing into the LCD? Also for the iPhone 7, does the glue seepage into lcd cause discoloration like this?

  10. ive taken off the entire glass and glue with my fingers only and the screen was perfectly fine

  11. Watching this at 2019, wondering if zack has a new intro logo, but whoa this was 2014! 🤩

  12. Damage of what would effect the 'RETINA DISPLAY' and clarity of the IPHONE
    A. just the glass
    B.SCREEN comletely
    C. it would effect if i repalce it with A SCREEN OTHER THAN APPLE
    D. Please answer this

  13. what I do in this kind of scenario, I send out my working screen that is with broken glass to a person that I know in china that do this professionally. I take note all the screens i sent to him (serial numbers) luckily all screen are present and not swapped with a different one.

    i think this process of doing a screen recon for iphone is shown on Strangeparts channel with the video building his own iphone.

  14. The screen you'll get will be of inferior quality to Apple's original display. Unless you can just swap the assembly for a genuine item.

  15. I know its gonna sound crazy dude but when you go to remove the glue. Use butter and a paper towel. It eats it right off. Swear to god it works. My grandma taught me that shit back in the day. But once you heat up the glue. Paper towel and butter man. Swear on my life it works

  16. Can this fix screen touch problem? Lower portion of my phone is not working. I need your help please. Thanks!

  17. Thanks Jerry! This long (and not that boring) video made re-think my strategy to fix my wife's old iPhone: I'll buy a full new screen to make the replacement. Cheers.

  18. After about 3 years of repairing iPhone as a side gig to make some extra bucks, I’ve accumulated dozens of original Apple screens with cracked glass. I think I’ve watched this video about 5-6 times before but never actually committed to the repair. Today, as I stared at a box full of old cracked iPhone displays I thought, you know what, today is the day. I whipped out a 6S screen and got to work. My first attempt was okay, I managed to not completely destroy the screen, however there was a line of dead pixels in the middle, and while the touch was 100% functional, the screen isn’t something I wouldn’t consider worth putting new glass on. Having some idea of what I did wrong I attempted my second glass removal on an iPhone 6 display. Using more heat this time, and being more gentle, I managed in about 30 minutes to remove all the glass and still have a fully functional display! I managed to clean all the residue as well, and I now plan on looking into purchasing one of the shown alignment tools and some adhesive in order to complete the second half of the repair. All in all I’m beyond ecstatic that I was successful on only my second attempt. I’m going to keep attempting glass removals while I wait for the tool and adhesive to arrive. Thanks Jerry for motivating me to do something with displays that I would have thrown out if I kept accumulating any more. Hopefully the second half of the repair goes just as smoothly (fingers crossed) as the first half, and I end with a refurbished original display.

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