Your iPhone can no longer make it through the day and you have to charge it all the time? Your battery may be defective. In this guide, I’ll show you how to replace it. Click the comment shown to go straight to the first step of the guide. The info box at the bottom also has shortcuts to all the individual steps. Plan on taking about half an hour for the repair. It’s a little tricky because the display’s really glued on. You’ll need the following tools: a pentalobe screwdriver, a Phillips screwdriver, a tri-point screwdriver, a suction cup, a pick, a pair of tweezers, a steel laboratory spatula and a spudger. You also need a heat gun because the display’s really glued on. You can find these tools and the replacement part in our repair kit. If you get stuck anywhere during the repair, use the guide on our website, which includes pictures. You can also use the comment function there to ask questions. Have fun repairing your device. Before I start the repair, I’m going to turn off the device so I don’t cause any short circuits. Before I can open the device, I have to remove the two pentalobe screws to the left and right of the charging port. Now I want to open the iPhone 7 Plus’ display. Of course, I have to heat the glue with the heat gun so it’s easier to detach. Before I open the display, it’s very important to remember that there are cables on the side. That means I can’t push the pick under the display too hard. The display’s hooked on up here as usual. Even though it opens to the right, I have detach all the sides of the display first, then pull it down a little and tilt it up. So now I stick the suction cup to the lower end of the display, pull on it and try to get the pick between the display and the enclosure at the same time. This part’s a little harder with the iPhone 7 Plus because they used a stronger glue than in earlier iPhone models, but it’s not impossible. You just have to move your pick along the entire display, but don’t open it like the previous iPhones. Instead, continue detaching it up here. Because it’s hooked on in this corner up here, push down the display a little. Now the whole display is detached. Once I’ve taken off the suction cup, I can open the display and then set it down so it’s half on the edge and the cables won’t tear when I fold it over. But it opens up nicely. Now I want to disconnect the display. I have to start with these four tri-point screws holding the plate over the contacts. Once the screws are undone, I can just take off the plate. Now I disconnect the following contacts: I start with the battery to prevent short circuits or damage from short circuits during the repair. Then I disconnect the connection for the touchscreen and display. Finally, I disconnect the contact for the Home button. Then I have to uncover the contact for the earpiece and front camera so I can take the display off all the way. Once again, there are three tri-point screws and a plate securing these contacts. Once the screws are undone, I can simply take off the plate. Now the contact is exposed, and I carefully disconnect it from the PCB using the spudger. Next, I take off the display all the way. There are three adhesive strips holding the battery in the enclosure. You can see the ends here at the top of the battery. Before I can pull the adhesive strips, I have to remove the Taptic Engine and this plastic part that covers the Taptic Engine’s connection. Once the Taptic Engine’s contact is exposed, I carefully disconnect it using the spudger. There are three Phillips screws attaching the Taptic Engine to the enclosure. Once I’ve unscrewed them, I can carefully remove the Taptic Engine. Now that I’ve cleared the way to pull off the adhesive strips, I have to detach the tabs from the battery. I carefully pull on each tab with a pair of tweezers to gradually detach the ends. You can also try using your fingernail, depending on how well it’s working. Then I continue with the second tab and then of course I also have to uncover the tab for the third adhesive strip. Now I can pull one adhesive strip after the other. Without letting go of the device or the battery, I pull gently but always evenly and steadily to remove one adhesive strip after the other from the enclosure. They’re pretty long but it’s not that hard. Now I’m pulling out the last adhesive strip. It’s very important to hold onto the battery so it doesn’t fly out of the device. Now I can simply remove the battery. Here’s the new battery with the adhesive strips. I have to prepare the battery before I can install it. That means I have to attach the new adhesive strips to the back of the battery. I have to peel this blue protective film off the adhesive strips. Then you can go ahead and put on the adhesive strips so you can fold the tabs over at the end again. Of course, the adhesive strips have to be centered on the battery and not stick out past the end. Press it all on firmly, then turn the battery over and uncover the tabs’ three adhesive surfaces. There’s another little blue strip of film here, which you can just peel off. Then just flip the whole thing over and press it on. Now the battery’s prepared and you can also remove the red protective film. Now that it’s ready, I can put the battery in the enclosure. I use the battery contact or this stop here in the device to help me put the battery in at an angle. Then I can position it a little. I let it slide in gently. As soon as this battery contact is on the connection in the logic board, I know the battery’s positioned right. Now I put the Taptic Engine back in. It has a hole for a peg between the two screw holes, and I can use this hole to help me position it. Just put it in so you’ll be able to put in all three screws. Next, I fasten the Taptic Engine with the three screws. Then I connect the Taptic Engine to the Lightning connector again. Now I put the black plastic part back in. It’s important to gently stick it to the side here and press it on. There’s a piece of foam on it. Then I can use the two Phillips screws to fasten all of it. Now I want to put the display back on. I start with the connection for the front camera and the earpiece. First I put the display on upright, take the connection cable between my fingers and press the contact into the socket on the logic board. Then I put the display back in the original position on the side and set it on the right edge of the enclosure. Then I secure all the contacts with the protective plates, starting with the left connection. In this step, I connect the Home button and the display cable. Make sure you can hear all the connectors click into place. Otherwise, take them off and connect them again. Once all the connections are connected right, I can connect the battery again. Then I continue with the second cover plate. In this step, I can close the display again. First of all, I hook the two tabs on the upper end of the display back into the enclosure. So now I have to hook on the display by moving to the left a little. Then I can press it on all over so all the tabs click into the enclosure and the device is closed properly. To finish the repair, I just have to fasten the two pentalobe screws to the left and right of the charging port. Now you’ve repaired your iPhone, and I hope you had fun. But if you do get stuck somewhere, contact me at idoc.eu or use the comment function. I’d be happy to help you. Our how-to videos show tips and tricks for your iPhone, as well as solutions to many problems. Take a look at the videos or visit us on Facebook. Subscribe to our channel to make sure you don’t miss any new videos. See you next time.