The iPhone X is Apple’s most breakable phone yet, which means you’re probably gonna crack your display at some point. Apple wants to try to charge you almost $300 to fix it for you, but I’ve got a way that’ll save you some dough. Today I’m going to show you how to replace the display, and I’ll show you how to maintain face ID when you make the swap. Remember that by opening your device, you are losing water resistance, so be sure to apply new adhesive to your display when you reassemble your phone. We’ll have a link to that guide in the description below. For this repair, you’re going to need: a P2 pentalobe screwdriver, a, tri-point Y000 driver, a spudger, tweezers, an iOpener, an iSclack, and opening picks. Start by removing the strangely long P2 pentalobe screws by the lightning connector. Next use an iOpener to soften the adhesive on the edge of the phone. This will also help you insert an opening pick to cut away the adhesive. Once you get to the side with the power button, be careful. The display connectors reside on this side, and going in too deep with your pick can damage them. Go all around the phone, making sure you cut away the remaining adhesive. The iPhone X still opens up to the right, just like the iPhone 7 and 8, but all the connectors are now under one bracket to rule them all. Go ahead and remove those five tri-point screws and lift the bracket away with your tweezers. Grab your spudger and pray to the cable gods that you disconnect the right cables. Just kidding, I’ll show you where to start. Start by disconnecting the battery. It’s the third one up from the bottom. Then disconnect the three display connectors. It’s easier if you just follow the cables to its connector on the logic board. With all the connectors disconnected, you can remove the old display. To retain face ID you must swap over the original front sensor assembly to your new display. Moving on to the top of the display, remove the wide 000 screw near the infrared camera port. Beneath that screw lies a small metal grounding clip. If it didn’t come out already with the screw, go ahead and remove it. Next remove two more wide 000 screws holding the speaker and sensor assembly down. Using a spudger, gently pry under the top edge of the speaker, assembly, and flip it over down and away from the top edge of the display. Just be careful because the speaker is still attached via a thin cable. Heat up your iOpener and lay your display over it near the top. This will soften the adhesive securing the sensors. Carefully, slide the flat edge of your spudger underneath the flex cable below the microphone. Then twist gently to separate the microphone while being careful not to strain or damage the flex cable. If needed, use the point of the spudger to finish separating the microphone from its notch on the front panel. Grab a pick and slide it under the flex cable and proximity flood illuminator. Work the pick left to right carefully. Gently wiggle and lift to separate the module from the front panel. Using tweezers, wiggle the ambient light sensor and lift it from it’s notch on the display. With the entire ambient light sensor un-adhered, you can remove it from the display. If you’ve successfully removed the entire ambient light sensor then you’re all good for now, but if the white diffuser strip detached and stayed in the display, then you need to carefully dig that out. That’s all for this repair. Be sure to click that subscribe button so you’ve got the latest repair and teardown videos in your back pocket for your next fix. I’ll see you next time.